My journey has concluded. I hope those of you who've followed my adventures enjoyed the experience. My flight from Frankfurt to Detroit was uneventual and arrived an hour early. Yea! Passport and customes went smoothly. My parents met me at the airport and brought me back home.
It is currently 20 til 11pm and I'm still up. I've essentially been up for 24 hours . . . with a 3 hour nap. I think I might have beat the jet lag. However, I guess time will tell.
This will be the last post for this blog. I hope you've enjoyed it. :D
Sheila's European Adventure!
Finland, Italy, and Germany . . . in 23 days. The goal is to chronicle my adventures. I hope you will join me!
Sunday, June 10, 2012
Saturday, June 9, 2012
June 9: Last Day in Germany
I drove back to Frankfurt instead of searching for another town. Actually, the ladies I met in Breisach explained that Herzothum is the name of the town where the duke lived. This means, I have no clue what is the actual name of the town now. So, back to Frankfurt. I made it to what I think is the center of the city. There's a choir expo happening. I think it was busier than normal because of that. I did get to see the city's main cathedral and hear a choir sing while inside. It was beautiful. I spent the time walking about the food market and enjoying a bratwurst . . . finally! For lunch I had Viennas-style schnitzel . . . so not the official German Schnitzel, but schnitzel, nonetheless.
I'm hoping that tonight I'll enjoy spatzle (egg yolk noodles). We'll see what I can find. Tonight will be relaxing and getting ready for flying! My luggage is on its last leg. It served me well even though it is only a year old. However, let's examine it's life. It's first journey was a 3-week journey through Vietnam where we stayed in 7 different hotels. It then took a flight to Bangkok and then made its way back to Detroit. I used it for the policy class trip to DC. I also used it for my trip to St. Charles, MO in September. It then traveled to Florida and now this trip. On this trip, its been to 7 hotels (8 visits, though). It was pulled, while running, through the Venice train station. Oh, I think it also went to Louisville, TN for the ACPA conversation . . . can't remember. So, did it serve me well?
I'm hoping that tonight I'll enjoy spatzle (egg yolk noodles). We'll see what I can find. Tonight will be relaxing and getting ready for flying! My luggage is on its last leg. It served me well even though it is only a year old. However, let's examine it's life. It's first journey was a 3-week journey through Vietnam where we stayed in 7 different hotels. It then took a flight to Bangkok and then made its way back to Detroit. I used it for the policy class trip to DC. I also used it for my trip to St. Charles, MO in September. It then traveled to Florida and now this trip. On this trip, its been to 7 hotels (8 visits, though). It was pulled, while running, through the Venice train station. Oh, I think it also went to Louisville, TN for the ACPA conversation . . . can't remember. So, did it serve me well?
June 8: Glad I Have a SMALL Car!
I was somewhat successful regarding my mom’s dad’s side of the family. I found my way to Gunlingen, Germany. I stopped at a hairdresser’s place and asked if they knew of any Zipfels. They said not in Gunlingen, but in Breisach, Germany. I proceeded to an address of a Zipfel in Breisach, but it was an apartment building and I didn’t go see if I could find Zipfel. I looked for the City Hall and made my way up a hill to where the city hall is located, along with a church. I went to the City Hall, but they were not much help. They will not just give out information. I did get a map of the area, though. Next to the City Hall was a small cafĂ©. I decided to go in and ask the wonderful ladies if they knew of any Zipfels. They heard of the name, but did not know anyone personally. I ordered a pretzel and cappuccino and talked with them briefly. I eventually showed them my genealogy book and they gave me the name and e-mail address of the archiver of the city. This archiver covers the small towns connected to Breisach, including Gundlingen. The ladies helped me figure out what town the Zipfels I knew about are in. They also found another one in the phone book. I thanked them greatly and gave them my e-mail address to stay in touch.
Now, I proceeded to put an address into the GPS system and it kept telling me to take pedestrian streets instead of drivable streets. I thought I would never get off that hill. I had to back up at least 2 times and continue another way down. I’m surprised I didn’t get stopped by the police. If I didn’t have a small car, I don’t know how I would’ve made it.
I went to one address and it was another apartment complex, but this time I went to the door, but didn’t see Zipfel listed. I went to another address. This time, a couple was leaving and they looked at me odd. As they passed me, I rolled down my window and they did the same. I asked about Zipfels. “Yes, they live there, but they are on holiday in Spain . . . no France.” I have the address, so I could send them a letter . . . later.
I proceeded to look for other Zipfels. I eventually found the address for one . . . once someone walked me to the address. I rang and after the 3rd ring, an older woman answered the door. Needless to say, I became flustered and said “thank you” instead of “hello” and she closed the door in my face. :( I rang again, but figured she wouldn’t answer. I then went to the other address in the same town. This time, I prepared what I would say . . . in German. I found the ringer for Zipfel and rang. He called from the balcony. I asked if he spoke English . . . a little bit. (This is the standard answer to this question, BTW). I explained that my mom is a Zipfel and I was looking for relatives. He came downstairs and talked with me for a bit. I showed him my information, but the names did not look familiar to him. He shared his name, along with his father’s and grandfather’s. I asked if I could take a picture, but he said no. He also told me that the lady who shut the door on me is his mother. I forgot to ask when his father and grandfather passed away.
After that, I decided I was hungry and found a German restaurant in a nearby town. Unfortunately, they were not serving food at that moment. So, I decided to drive back to Karlsruhe. Driving on the Autoban is thrilling. In one second no car is behind you; then all of a sudden, there’s a car and you need to move to the right. I can say that they were going faster than 130-140 km/hour. ;)
After returning to my hotel, I decided to walk the streets to find a German restaurant. I asked the hotel person for a recommendation, but he did not give me a name of a restaurant, just that they are up and down the main street and off another street. Granted, I only walked down the main street, but I couldn’t find one that served food. I was getting frustrated. I stopped at one and went in. I got odd looks and was told that they do not serve food. As I was leaving, I wondered if it was a bar that served only men since I received an surprised look from a gentleman leaving . . . hmmm. I gave up looking and just ate at the hotel. My goal tomorrow is to have a bratwurst and spetzle. I think I’ll spend most of Saturday in Frankfurt.
So, the first Mission Impossible is on TV tonight. I’ve also seen other sitcoms (Malcolm in the Middle, Scrubs, Two and a Half Men, and How I Met Your Mother). I watch the mouths of the actors and it looks like they are saying the German words . . . not the English words with German subbed. Granted, the voice of the German is not the same as the actor, but the actor seems to be at least mouthing the German words. So, I wonder if the movies are re-shot with German being mouthed. Anyone have any insight?
This is my last night in Karlsruhe. I can’t say that I’m sad to say goodbye. This town’s roads are under MAJOR construction. I’m lucky I was able to leave today and get back to the hotel. I think I found a country that rivals the States in regards to road construction . . . Germany. Think about the Autoban on which drivers can go any speed above 60 km/h and there really is no speed limit. As cars are driving along, there are speed limit signs that bring the top speed from 120km to 80km in a matter of kilometers. Then, we have to cross the median . . . and the lanes are tight! Again, another reason why I’m glad I have a small car.
That’s all she wrote for tonight. :D
Now, I proceeded to put an address into the GPS system and it kept telling me to take pedestrian streets instead of drivable streets. I thought I would never get off that hill. I had to back up at least 2 times and continue another way down. I’m surprised I didn’t get stopped by the police. If I didn’t have a small car, I don’t know how I would’ve made it.
I went to one address and it was another apartment complex, but this time I went to the door, but didn’t see Zipfel listed. I went to another address. This time, a couple was leaving and they looked at me odd. As they passed me, I rolled down my window and they did the same. I asked about Zipfels. “Yes, they live there, but they are on holiday in Spain . . . no France.” I have the address, so I could send them a letter . . . later.
I proceeded to look for other Zipfels. I eventually found the address for one . . . once someone walked me to the address. I rang and after the 3rd ring, an older woman answered the door. Needless to say, I became flustered and said “thank you” instead of “hello” and she closed the door in my face. :( I rang again, but figured she wouldn’t answer. I then went to the other address in the same town. This time, I prepared what I would say . . . in German. I found the ringer for Zipfel and rang. He called from the balcony. I asked if he spoke English . . . a little bit. (This is the standard answer to this question, BTW). I explained that my mom is a Zipfel and I was looking for relatives. He came downstairs and talked with me for a bit. I showed him my information, but the names did not look familiar to him. He shared his name, along with his father’s and grandfather’s. I asked if I could take a picture, but he said no. He also told me that the lady who shut the door on me is his mother. I forgot to ask when his father and grandfather passed away.
After that, I decided I was hungry and found a German restaurant in a nearby town. Unfortunately, they were not serving food at that moment. So, I decided to drive back to Karlsruhe. Driving on the Autoban is thrilling. In one second no car is behind you; then all of a sudden, there’s a car and you need to move to the right. I can say that they were going faster than 130-140 km/hour. ;)
After returning to my hotel, I decided to walk the streets to find a German restaurant. I asked the hotel person for a recommendation, but he did not give me a name of a restaurant, just that they are up and down the main street and off another street. Granted, I only walked down the main street, but I couldn’t find one that served food. I was getting frustrated. I stopped at one and went in. I got odd looks and was told that they do not serve food. As I was leaving, I wondered if it was a bar that served only men since I received an surprised look from a gentleman leaving . . . hmmm. I gave up looking and just ate at the hotel. My goal tomorrow is to have a bratwurst and spetzle. I think I’ll spend most of Saturday in Frankfurt.
So, the first Mission Impossible is on TV tonight. I’ve also seen other sitcoms (Malcolm in the Middle, Scrubs, Two and a Half Men, and How I Met Your Mother). I watch the mouths of the actors and it looks like they are saying the German words . . . not the English words with German subbed. Granted, the voice of the German is not the same as the actor, but the actor seems to be at least mouthing the German words. So, I wonder if the movies are re-shot with German being mouthed. Anyone have any insight?
This is my last night in Karlsruhe. I can’t say that I’m sad to say goodbye. This town’s roads are under MAJOR construction. I’m lucky I was able to leave today and get back to the hotel. I think I found a country that rivals the States in regards to road construction . . . Germany. Think about the Autoban on which drivers can go any speed above 60 km/h and there really is no speed limit. As cars are driving along, there are speed limit signs that bring the top speed from 120km to 80km in a matter of kilometers. Then, we have to cross the median . . . and the lanes are tight! Again, another reason why I’m glad I have a small car.
That’s all she wrote for tonight. :D
June 7: Met a Distant Relative on a Regional Holiday
My goal for today was to visit Hohenecken, Germany and Steinwenden, Germany to find relatives from my dad’s dad side. I was successful in that I met Augustus Coressel and his daughter, Verna. Augustus has the same genealogy information I have because of Justin F. Coressel who is a distant relative of my father. He mentioned that today was a holiday for the town, but it was actually for the region. This holiday meant that 90 percent of all stores were closed today, including pharmacies and general department stores. This lend to the rest of the day not being as successful. I could not find anyone in Steinwenden to with whom to talk. So, I went on my way to my hotel in Karlsruhe, Germany. Due to the holiday, my choice for food was limited. Ironically, I had Italian for lunch AND dinner. Just seems odd to have Italian so soon after being in Italy.
Have I mentioned how happy I am that I have a GPS system? I would be completely lost without it. My hotel in Karlsruhe is okay. I have one window, but no breeze . . . and no air conditioning. I know it is cooler outside, but I cannot feel it. :( The internet is not strong here AND it costs 8 Euros for 24 hours. Therefore, not worth it.
I’m chilling in the room watching Heidi Klum host the finale of Germany’s Next Top Model. I cannot understand all of it, but I do like the runways and pictures. I think I can figure out who will be the winner. It is totally different than America’s Next Top Model. Germany’s finale is LIVE for 3 hours. It is in a jam-packed stadium. I wonder where it is being held in Germany? Oh . . . they have Justin Bieber . . . ugh.
Tomorrow, I hope to find some relatives from my mom’s dad’s side. Wish me luck!
Have I mentioned how happy I am that I have a GPS system? I would be completely lost without it. My hotel in Karlsruhe is okay. I have one window, but no breeze . . . and no air conditioning. I know it is cooler outside, but I cannot feel it. :( The internet is not strong here AND it costs 8 Euros for 24 hours. Therefore, not worth it.
I’m chilling in the room watching Heidi Klum host the finale of Germany’s Next Top Model. I cannot understand all of it, but I do like the runways and pictures. I think I can figure out who will be the winner. It is totally different than America’s Next Top Model. Germany’s finale is LIVE for 3 hours. It is in a jam-packed stadium. I wonder where it is being held in Germany? Oh . . . they have Justin Bieber . . . ugh.
Tomorrow, I hope to find some relatives from my mom’s dad’s side. Wish me luck!
Wednesday, June 6, 2012
What Did I Get Myself Into?!
First, and foremost, I made it safely to Germany and to my hotel. I am SO grateful that I rented a European GPS to bring with me. I would be completely lost without it. Today I started in Rome, Italy and ended it in Frankfurt, Germany. I loaded my luggage up and carried a VERY heavy carryon throughout three different airports.
At the Rome Airport, the check-in desk that was listed for Vienna was wrong! It was not 246, but 218-220. Instead of fixing it on the screen, employees came by asking if people were in line for Vienna. To make it even more confusing, my reservations were through AirBerlin, but I flew with Niki. Did they change their name? My luggage was 0.9kg over the 23kg limit, but I was not charged. Whew! I'm also glad they did not weigh my carryon. That was extremely heavy. At least I'll have a 2 carryon allowance on my trip back to the States.
After arriving in Vienna, there was a wonderful sight from America . . . Starbucks. There's a picture on Facebook. I had about a 2.5 hour layover there and just took my time. About an hour before take off, I noticed people standing in line to check in already. So, I bought a bottle of water and a sandwich; stuffed them in my bag and stood in line. We had to go through security again. I found out after going through the metal detector that my water had to be empty because (1) it was not in a bag and (2) it was more than 100ml. I was completely confused because I bought the water at the airport and it was sealed. I was told I could sit there and drink it all or they can dump it out and give me the bottle back. I decided to drink some of it, but then had them pour the rest out since there was no way I could drink all of that water.
The flight to Frankfurt was smooth. While waiting to get off the plane, I met a woman from Oregon who was returning to Germany to fly back to the states. She has relatives here. Nice lady. As I was waiting at baggage claim, I prayed that my luggage would make it . . . which it did. :) I got my luggage and proceeded to go towards the car rental desk but was thwarted by a police tape blocking half of the concourse area for some reason. This is where I met Kevin. Kevin has lived in Kaiserslaturn for aout 10 years all together. He is originally from Salem, Ohio but now claims Texas as home. He was waiting to pick up friends coming from London. They were blocked on the other side . . . at least that's what were guessing. Kevin and I had a good conversation and he gave me advice on driving. Which was helpful. After about 20 minutes waiting, the police tape was removed and we could move about the cabin (hehe). I have a Ford Fiesta. How ironic that I go to another country known for car manufacturing and I am renting a Ford.
I got to the hotel and dilly-dallied for about an hour or so. Then, I asked the wonderful lady at the desk for a restaurant recommendation. She gave me an excellent one and I went on my way. I ordered leg of pork with sauerkraut, and fried potatoes. I'll admit that I was not expecting an actual leg of pork, but it was great! After eating, I sat at the bar for a little bit and attempted to speak some German to one of the customers and the waitress. This conversation, along with the conversations at the hotel, does not calm my worries on talking with Germans. Most of the towns I'm planning on going to are small and I suspect not many people there speak English. I hope I am brave enough to complete my mission and not just lock myself in my hotel room for the next three days.
If you have any advice for me, I am completely open. Wish me luck tomorrow!
At the Rome Airport, the check-in desk that was listed for Vienna was wrong! It was not 246, but 218-220. Instead of fixing it on the screen, employees came by asking if people were in line for Vienna. To make it even more confusing, my reservations were through AirBerlin, but I flew with Niki. Did they change their name? My luggage was 0.9kg over the 23kg limit, but I was not charged. Whew! I'm also glad they did not weigh my carryon. That was extremely heavy. At least I'll have a 2 carryon allowance on my trip back to the States.
After arriving in Vienna, there was a wonderful sight from America . . . Starbucks. There's a picture on Facebook. I had about a 2.5 hour layover there and just took my time. About an hour before take off, I noticed people standing in line to check in already. So, I bought a bottle of water and a sandwich; stuffed them in my bag and stood in line. We had to go through security again. I found out after going through the metal detector that my water had to be empty because (1) it was not in a bag and (2) it was more than 100ml. I was completely confused because I bought the water at the airport and it was sealed. I was told I could sit there and drink it all or they can dump it out and give me the bottle back. I decided to drink some of it, but then had them pour the rest out since there was no way I could drink all of that water.
The flight to Frankfurt was smooth. While waiting to get off the plane, I met a woman from Oregon who was returning to Germany to fly back to the states. She has relatives here. Nice lady. As I was waiting at baggage claim, I prayed that my luggage would make it . . . which it did. :) I got my luggage and proceeded to go towards the car rental desk but was thwarted by a police tape blocking half of the concourse area for some reason. This is where I met Kevin. Kevin has lived in Kaiserslaturn for aout 10 years all together. He is originally from Salem, Ohio but now claims Texas as home. He was waiting to pick up friends coming from London. They were blocked on the other side . . . at least that's what were guessing. Kevin and I had a good conversation and he gave me advice on driving. Which was helpful. After about 20 minutes waiting, the police tape was removed and we could move about the cabin (hehe). I have a Ford Fiesta. How ironic that I go to another country known for car manufacturing and I am renting a Ford.
I got to the hotel and dilly-dallied for about an hour or so. Then, I asked the wonderful lady at the desk for a restaurant recommendation. She gave me an excellent one and I went on my way. I ordered leg of pork with sauerkraut, and fried potatoes. I'll admit that I was not expecting an actual leg of pork, but it was great! After eating, I sat at the bar for a little bit and attempted to speak some German to one of the customers and the waitress. This conversation, along with the conversations at the hotel, does not calm my worries on talking with Germans. Most of the towns I'm planning on going to are small and I suspect not many people there speak English. I hope I am brave enough to complete my mission and not just lock myself in my hotel room for the next three days.
If you have any advice for me, I am completely open. Wish me luck tomorrow!
June 5th: Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, a cooking class, and Cute Waiters
What a great way to spend my last day in Italy. I really could fall in love with Italy . . . and Rome. Vaughn and I started the day with Piazza Navona where the fountain of the four rivers is located. LOTS of "painters" set up shop in the square hoping for tourists to buy their paintings. I think I could spend all day there. We met up with a tour group there and started a 1 hour walking tour which included Tartufo (Ice Cream made into large balls and covered with chocolate shavings and such. There is also a cherry, piece of chocolate biscotti inside. I had the almond-flavored one. After that treat, we explored the Pantheon (one of the only free historical buildings in Rome) and Trevi Fountain. The story with Trevi Fountain is if you throw 1 coin in the fountain, you will return to Rome. If you throw 2 in, you will find love in Rome; and if you throw 3 in, your divorce will be short. The trick is to put the coins in your right hand and throw them in over your left shoulder. Any guesses on how many coins I threw? ;)
This is where the walking tour ended, however Vaughn and mine adventure did not end quite yet. Our tour also included a cooking class. We arrived at That's Amore! and met with Manuel (I think). We made two different pastas: ravoli with ricotta and spinach) and Cavatelli (small shells). We had so much fun! The cavatelli can be made in any kitchen . . . you need a pasta roller machine for the ravoli, though. After making the pasta, we enjoyed Prosecco (sparking white wine) and bread while waiting for a pasta to cook. First, we had the cavatelli with tomato sauce and eggplant; then the ravoli. It was amazing! We thought we were done, but to our pleasant surprise, dessert was included. Tiramisu was on the menu and I hestitated in ordering it. I never enjoyed this dessert in America, but felt that I needed to try it in Italy. I'm so glad I did. This was THE BEST tiramisu ever! It came in a bowl with the lady fingers at the bottom and covered with custard. Enough said.
After lunch, we walked to the Spanish Steps and then walked by the Villa Borghese. This led to the Piazza del Popolo, Square of the People. We then decided to try to find the markets places for Italian leather stores, but to no luck. We did find the gelato place our friend, Danielle, recommended: Gelataria Giolitti. This did NOT disappoint. I had orange and chocolate and it was amazing.
We ended the evening with dinner at the restaurant close to our hotel . . . the one where the waiter told us on the first day: drop of your luggage, come back and you eat. Eventually, we came back to eat. We ended up sitting by a lovely lady from Alberta, Canada who decided to extend her trip to Rome by a week. It was a great conversation with food and wine. The waiters were wonderful and entertaining . . . and I got pictures to prove it. :)
After dinner, the mission was to pack all of my stuff into 1 suitcase and 1 carry-on. My suitcase was .9kg over the limit, but no charge for me! Whew . . . My carry-on, though is another story. I'm about done with carrying this. Just one more leg and then I will be able to have 2 carry-ons when I return to the States. Only 2.5 hours until I'm in Germany!
This is where the walking tour ended, however Vaughn and mine adventure did not end quite yet. Our tour also included a cooking class. We arrived at That's Amore! and met with Manuel (I think). We made two different pastas: ravoli with ricotta and spinach) and Cavatelli (small shells). We had so much fun! The cavatelli can be made in any kitchen . . . you need a pasta roller machine for the ravoli, though. After making the pasta, we enjoyed Prosecco (sparking white wine) and bread while waiting for a pasta to cook. First, we had the cavatelli with tomato sauce and eggplant; then the ravoli. It was amazing! We thought we were done, but to our pleasant surprise, dessert was included. Tiramisu was on the menu and I hestitated in ordering it. I never enjoyed this dessert in America, but felt that I needed to try it in Italy. I'm so glad I did. This was THE BEST tiramisu ever! It came in a bowl with the lady fingers at the bottom and covered with custard. Enough said.
After lunch, we walked to the Spanish Steps and then walked by the Villa Borghese. This led to the Piazza del Popolo, Square of the People. We then decided to try to find the markets places for Italian leather stores, but to no luck. We did find the gelato place our friend, Danielle, recommended: Gelataria Giolitti. This did NOT disappoint. I had orange and chocolate and it was amazing.
We ended the evening with dinner at the restaurant close to our hotel . . . the one where the waiter told us on the first day: drop of your luggage, come back and you eat. Eventually, we came back to eat. We ended up sitting by a lovely lady from Alberta, Canada who decided to extend her trip to Rome by a week. It was a great conversation with food and wine. The waiters were wonderful and entertaining . . . and I got pictures to prove it. :)
After dinner, the mission was to pack all of my stuff into 1 suitcase and 1 carry-on. My suitcase was .9kg over the limit, but no charge for me! Whew . . . My carry-on, though is another story. I'm about done with carrying this. Just one more leg and then I will be able to have 2 carry-ons when I return to the States. Only 2.5 hours until I'm in Germany!
June 4th: Guided Tour of the Roman Forum is a MUST!
Our first full day in Rome consisted of the Vatican City, Sistine Chapel, St. Peter’s Basilica, St. Peter’s Square, and the Roman Forum. Guided tours (and skip the line) are must for all of these . . . okay, maybe not the square. We spent about 3 ½ hours walking through the Vatican Museums, Sistine Chapel, and St. Peter’s Basilica. Again, amazing and breathtaking. After the tour, I return to the Basilica and prayed in the prayer room. In the museum there is a room dedicated to Holy Mary and her ascension into heaven. It brought tears to my eyes. In the gift shop, I took a picture of two nuns who work in the gift shop . . . they are lovely individuals. :D
After lunch, Vaughn and I decided to go to the Roman Forum, which includes the ruins. Unfortunately, they were out of maps when we arrived (likely story). We stumbled our way through with our Lonely Planet guidebook . . . which wasn’t very helpful. We did finally see where the Senate met (Curia), Temple of Saturn (Tempio di Saturno), and House of the Vesta Virgins (Casa della Vestali). The ruins also included the Arch of Titus (Arco di Tito) and the Arch of Septimius Severus (Arco di Settimio Severo). By looking at the ruins, you can see how massive these buildings were.
Although we only walked about 5.75 miles, our feet are exhausted because of the stairs and rough terrain at the Forum. One more full day of Rome . . . then off to Germany for me. Oh boy!
After lunch, Vaughn and I decided to go to the Roman Forum, which includes the ruins. Unfortunately, they were out of maps when we arrived (likely story). We stumbled our way through with our Lonely Planet guidebook . . . which wasn’t very helpful. We did finally see where the Senate met (Curia), Temple of Saturn (Tempio di Saturno), and House of the Vesta Virgins (Casa della Vestali). The ruins also included the Arch of Titus (Arco di Tito) and the Arch of Septimius Severus (Arco di Settimio Severo). By looking at the ruins, you can see how massive these buildings were.
Although we only walked about 5.75 miles, our feet are exhausted because of the stairs and rough terrain at the Forum. One more full day of Rome . . . then off to Germany for me. Oh boy!
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